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Keeping Your Fat Bike Rolling Smoothly

Fat Bike Maintenance

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Riding a fat bike can open up a whole new world of adventure. With their ultra wide tires, fat bikes can tackle snow, sand, and other loose surfaces that would leave ordinary mountain bikes spinning their wheels. However, all of that fun comes with some extra maintenance responsibilities. Paying a little bit of attention to your fat bike on a regular basis will help keep it rolling smoothly for years to come.

Cleaning Your Drivetrain

One of the most important maintenance tasks on any bike is keeping the drivetrain clean. The drivetrain includes all the parts that transfer power from the pedals to the rear wheel. On a fat bike, the drivetrain takes more abuse from mud, snow, sand, and dust. Left unchecked, all that grime will quickly wear down key components.

Start drivetrain cleaning by using a stiff bristle brush and some degreaser to remove large clumps of caked on dirt and debris. Pay special attention to the chain rings, rear cassette, derailleurs, and the chain itself. These parts see the most action and really attract grime. Light scrubbing with the brush removes the worst build up. Following up with a rag allows you to wipe the components down without pushing grime deeper into crevices.

After getting rid of all the large particles, fill a bowl or pan with warm degreaser solution. Then remove the chain from the bike and let it soak for 30-60 minutes, gently scrubbing with a small brush periodically. This allows the degreaser to break down the smallest bits of grit that grind away expensive moving parts over time. Rinse everything thoroughly, wipe it down, and re-lube before putting the chain back on the bike.

Staying on top of basic drivetrain cleaning dramatically reduces wear. A little effort saves you money in replacement parts down the road.

Lubing the Chain

Lubricating your bike chain is part of basic drivetrain cleaning and ongoing maintenance. Without enough lube, chain links would grind against each other. That greatly accelerates wear. However, it is also possible to use too much chain lube. The excess then just attracts more dirt and debris. Finding the right balance is key.

When lubricating, start by wiping down the chain with a clean rag to remove surface dirt and old lube. Apply a very thin layer of fresh bike chain oil or lube using an applicator. Slowly turn the pedals to draw the lube into the rollers and bushings inside. Wipe away any excess puddles of lube, you just want a light coating on the outside plates and rollers.

The optimal lube amount allows silky smooth rolling with no gunk left behind on your fingers when you handle the chain. How often you need to reapply depends on riding conditions. Dry climates may allow weeks between applications. Wet areas sometimes need fresh lube every couple rides. Adjust accordingly if you notice grit building up quickly or if pedaling feels rough.

Taking a few extra minutes to properly lube your chain pays dividends through smoother shifting and less drivetrain wear. It is time well spent.

Maintaining Tires & Sealant

One standout feature of fat bikes are those gloriously voluminous tires. Floating over loose terrain or plowing through snow banks takes rubber real estate. However, more tire also means more potential maintenance. Time spent keeping fat bike tires and sealant in good shape guarantees carefree trail ripping.

The quickest tire check is running your fingers along the tread and sidewalls feeling for cuts or gouges. Use a little soapy water to find small leaks caused by thorns or debris embedded in the rubber. Simply replace damaged inner tubes like any other bike flat. Prevent bigger problems down the road by booting gashes or filing down cuts on the tire exterior.

Fat bike specific inner tubes come reinforced to handle the increased air volume. Make sure to match the proper size when replacing. While you have the tube out, check inside the rim for anything poking through like broken spokes or rim damage.

While fixing flats addresses punctures after they happen, tire sealant prevents many flats from even occurring. Sealant sloshing around inside forms a barrier against small punctures. However it slowly dries out over time. Every couple months, unseat one edge of each tire, spin the wheels, and inject a bit more sealant to freshen protection. Finding the right balance keeps you sealed against flats without carrying around a bunch of dried flaky junk inside your tires.

Staying proactive with fat bike tires eliminates many of the unplanned stops and frustrations flats cause out on the trail. Gliding over obstacles rather than pushing a bike out brings much more fun.

Adjusting Mechanical Disc Brakes

The wide, voluminous tires on fat bikes allow them to float over loose terrain other mountain bikes would sink into. However, those big tires also mean increased momentum on downhills. Mechanical disc brakes provide the extra stopping power necessary to control speed in loose conditions. Keeping them properly adjusted ensures you can scrub speed at a moments notice.

Start brake adjustments by checking pad depth. Pads should have at least 2mm of material remaining for safe braking. If pads are worn down near their cut lines, go ahead and replace them with fresh ones before adjusting anything else. New pads bed in best when the caliper and rotor are still flat and parallel.

With sufficient pad depth, loosen the caliper mounting bolts and squeeze the brake lever a few times to center the caliper over the rotor. While holding the lever down firmly, gradually tighten the caliper bolts a little at a time until they are quite snug. This registers the caliper in the perfect position for solid braking.

If the rotor looks slightly crooked between the pads, use the small adjustment bolts located near the cable hanger. Turning these in or out positions each pad independently to ensure even contact across the entire rotor surface when braking.

Finally, address cable tightness if brake levers pull too far or feel mushy. The adjuster barrel located near the caliper dials in just the right cable tension for solid lever feel combined with quick pad engagement.

Staying on top of front and rear disc brake adjustments gives you the responsive stopping power essential for controlling a fat bike on rugged terrain. Take a few minutes before or after every ride checking pads and adjusting as needed. Braking confidence vastly improves trail enjoyment.

Replacing Cassettes and Chain Rings

Fat bike drivetrains handle plenty of abuse riding over rough terrain. Components like cassettes and chain rings take the brunt as they scratch along trail obstacles under power. Checking wear and replacing these parts as necessary keeps shifting clean and smooth.

Examining gear teeth gives the best gauge of remaining life. Lay the chain over each cog or chain ring in turn while backpedaling with a finger stabilizing things. Compare how far down between the teeth the lower span of chain nestles. If it sinks much deeper between front ring teeth or in the back cog valleys, replacement time is near.

Judging wear visually without costly specialty tools works for most riders. However, you can also use inexpensive chain checker tools to measure “chain stretch” confirming if links are elongating indicating drivetrain wear.

Replacing a worn cassette or chain rings before they are completely fried allows fresh gears and chains to mate properly. Things usually operate well until you notice performance dropping. Shifting gets sloppier and chains slip more frequently under load as parts wear down.

Swapping in new drivetrain components periodically refreshes everything restoring crisp performance. Stick with components designed specifically for fat bikes to handle the added demands. Quality gear clusters and chain rings deliver miles of fun out on the trail. Investing a little for the right parts saves headaches down the road.

Staying ahead of drivetrain wear minimizes damage to expensive components in the long run. Pay attention and replace cassettes and chain rings once shifting suffers. Restored performance keeps you smiling mile after mile.

Caring for Bearings

Between wheel hubs, bottom brackets, headsets, and pedals, fat bikes have a lot of moving parts. Steel bearings allow parts to spin freely even when grinding through mud and snow carries water directly into places it should not go. Good fat bike bearings require proper maintenance for longevity.

Many bearings run directly in grease inside their component housing. Water contamination gradually washes grease out leaving little protection from grinding metal on metal contact. Check bearing areas by grabbing wheels, cranks and handlebars and feeling for roughness or gritty sensation when oscillating things back and forth.

Re-greasing bearings regularly prevents irreversible damage from grit ingress. Carefully pull seals, extract bearings, clean everything in degreaser and let dry fully. Visually inspect balls and races for pitting or embedded debris. As long as no visible etching from rust exists, apply fresh waterproof bearing grease and reassemble. Spin parts to check for smooth rolling motion.

Sealed bearings do not allow direct greasing. However it still makes sense to periodically service these. Remove snap ring retainers or press bearings out of their housings. Deep clean pieces, check for damage, pack with grease and press back into place or snap retainers back on. Spin to check for smooth operation.

Some higher end fat bike components use loose ball bearings adjustable for minimal play. A little bit of grit can knock these out of adjustment. Grab wheels or parts and gently rock back and forth feeling for any clunking sensation. A slight knock indicates looseness. Consult bike specific manuals for the proper spacer order behind bearings. Then carefully tighten the lock nuts in very small increments checking frequently by rocking until all play disappears but parts still spin freely.

Staying on top of basic bearing maintenance adds years of life to essential fat bike components. A little cleaning and re-greasing or adjustment saves money replacing expensive parts down the road. Everything rolls smoother preventing damage too when bearings operate as intended.

Frame Protection

Bashing over rocks and logs combined with salted winter road grime subjects fat bike frames to plenty of abuse. Paint chips and unprotected aluminum exposed to elements creates corrosion issues down the road. Frame protection protects your investment.

DIY solutions like old tubes slit down the middle or self adhering shelter material blocks debris impacts while still allowing visibility of fine frame details. Wrapping chain stay and down tube areas vulnerable to rock strikes saves headaches.

More complete coverage comes from molded neoprene frame skins custom tailored to specific bike makes and models. These slide over entire frames buffering from dings while their tight fit maintains easy access to water bottles and other accessories.

No matter the material, proper installation is key for frame protection that survives abuse. Thorough cleaning of frames allows tape and skins to adhere tightly. Carefully trim around brake and derailleur mounts so pivots function freely without binds. Leave serial numbers and inspector stickers accessible if possible.

Check protective gear periodically for tears or missing sections allowing frame access. Touch up tape edges or glue small tears to prevent peeling and further entry points for grime. Replace frame protection gear every year or two as salt and UV exposure gradually break materials down.

Defending your frame keeps fat bikes looking fresh season after season. Quality protection brings peace of mind blasting over obstacles knowing appearances and resale take no hits from errant trail debris.

Conducting Bolt & Fastener Checks

Between suspension components, accessories, racks, and bits securing frame pivots, fat bikes have a lot of bolts holding everything together. Vibration from pounding over variable terrain slowly loosens even properly torqued hardware. Loose bolts lead to lost parts, damaged frames, or dangerous failures when riding aggressively. Getting in the habit of quick bolt checks ensures you do not have problems out on the trail.

Start fastener inspections by examining each for rust or corrosion build up which compromises strength. If crud exists, remove bolts and clean with a wire brush before reinstalling with fresh thread locking compound to prevent repeats. This also provides the opportunity to grease pivots for smooth operation.

Methodically work around the bike, firmly tightening any loose fasteners found using the proper tool for each rather than whatever random screwdriver or multi tool fits. Quality hex wrenches or high leverage options apply appropriate torque without rounding bolt heads off. If something feels excessively loose, examine closely for damaged threads or broken parts necessitating replacement.

Make fastener checks part of your pre-ride ritual right along with braking and shifting tests. Just a couple minutes poking around prevents problems miles down the trail. Any issues caught at home allow proper repairs so you can still get out and ride.

Staying on top of securing various bolts and fasteners before hitting the trails eliminates problems miles from help. Consistent checks provide peace of mind no key parts will go wandering off when bombing down hills.

Practicing Proper Storage & Transport

One amazing capability drawing riders to fat bikes is flotation allowing access to back country trails and winter wonderlands far from home. Reaching those far flung places involves properly securing bikes to vehicles during long jaunts down highways full of debris and other hazards. Careless transport risks expensive damage. Invest a little effort for stress free driving while exploring new terrain.

Foam cradles shaped specifically for fat bike tires position frames solidly on vehicle racks with no side to side sway. This prevents fork twisting or hanger tweaking when bouncing over uneven pavement for hours on end. Fork mount work stands hold front wheels safely vertical eliminating pressure on delicate hydraulic brake pistons during transport.

Ratchet straps snugged down moderately secure bikes firmly without compressing suspension components or denting tubes if bumps or panic stops occur. Avoid using loose hoops style attachments allowing excessive frame motion and paint rubs.

If vehicle space allows removing front wheels, caliper alignment gets maintained with wheels off preventing rotor rubs on reassembly. However leave them on for quick trailside repairs. Zip tying rear derailleur cages rotated forward and tucking in brake levers also protects delicate parts when hammocked tightly.

Arriving with well protected bikes avoids eating into fun ride time performing repairs from transportation mishaps. Care taken getting to the trailhead keeps smiles per mile as high as possible all day long.

Similarly, safe storage with frames supported properly maintains precise wheel alignment eliminating brake rubs so grabbing bikes for the next adventure never involves extra work beforehand. Keeping things dialed in and protected with mindful transport and storage makes every opportunity for awesome rides easy to capitalize on.

Staying On Top Of Things

Fat bikes open opportunities for adventure and fun other bikes just cannot. However, properly maintaining all those special components enabling multi surface domination does require some additional effort compared to traditional mountain bikes ridden in less extreme conditions.

Do not let extra maintenance intimidate you into missing great experiences only fat bikes provide. Consistently performing basic drivetrain cleaning, components checks, and inspections whenever washing bikes keeps parts rolling smoothly for miles of smiles.

Learn nuances of your specific ride – how often your drivetrain truly needs lubrication based on local conditions or what brake pad compound lasts longest on steep descents. Tailor maintenance to how and where you ride. Enlist local shop assistance determining optimal components for your regional trails.

Embed simple tasks like bolt checks into every pre-trip ritual. Schedule deeper cleaning sessions periodically as fun mini-projects with your favorite beverage of choice rather than as boring chores. You may even discover satisfaction in restoring dirty rides to like-new condition.

Approaching fat bike maintenance as caring for exciting toys enabling adventures you deeply value rather than as thankless tasks makes the work rewarding. Keep your ride happy and it will return the favor mile after mile.

About the Author

Tony K

Senior Technical Writer, MountainBikeExperience.com

Tony K is a technical editor at MountainBikeExperience.com. He has a focus on downhill bike riding but still loves xc bikes too.

With more than ten years of mountain biking experience and more than 5 years testing mountain bikes, Tony has ridden and tested hundreds of different bikes and products, everything from XC to enduro bikes. Tony regularly competes in mountain bike races while seeing how long those compontents can hold up which gives me a lot of insight.

When he isn't shredding down a mountain or camping out, he is writing reviews for Mountain Bike Experience.

Rides: Surly Lowside, Canyon Exceed